Get it right first time

Dry-fit first, key the cut edges, then bond and fill in a single pass with Epo-Fusion so the joint reads as one continuous tile.

1. 1Cut and dry-fit the mitre; check the corner closes with no light showing.
2. 2Clean both edges with a solvent wipe and let them flash off completely.
3. 3Mix resin and hardener to ratio, tint to the tile colour, then apply to both faces.
4. 4Close the mitre, tape it, and tool the excess off before it goes past gel.
5. 5Leave 15–20 minutes at room temperature, then de-tape and polish back.

The rule is base first, pigment second. Get the base tone right and you only need a whisper of pigment to land the match.

1. 1Pick the base colour closest to the tile body, not the glaze.
2. 2Add pigment paste one drop at a time — colour deepens as it cures.
3. 3Test on an offcut and let it fully cure before judging the match.
4. 4For veined or speckled stone, apply the base then flick the vein in with a fine brush.
5. 5Send a labelled offcut to us if you would rather we matched it for you.

Consistent colour in pointing is a measuring discipline, not a product problem. Weigh everything, every batch.

1. 1Weigh dye as a percentage of cement weight, not of the whole mix.
2. 2Keep the water content identical batch to batch — extra water lightens the cure.
3. 3Mix dye into the dry materials before adding water.
4. 4Make a sample board and let it dry fully; wet mortar always looks darker.
5. 5Mix enough for a whole elevation where you can, to avoid banding.

Epoxy chemistry is temperature-driven. The same kit behaves very differently in a January hallway and a July conservatory.

1. 1Below 10°C the cure slows sharply — warm the product, not the joint, before mixing.
2. 2Above 25°C working time shortens; mix half batches and work faster.
3. 3Never accelerate a cure with a heat gun on the joint; you will trap bubbles.
4. 4Full mechanical strength arrives well after the surface goes hard — leave it overnight before heavy use.

Almost every failed bond is a preparation failure. Dust, sealer residue and moisture are the three usual suspects.

1. 1Remove all dust — vacuum, don't brush.
2. 2Degrease with a solvent wipe; water leaves a film on porcelain.
3. 3Make sure the substrate is dry all the way through, not just on the surface.
4. 4Lightly key polished edges so the resin has something to grip.

These are professional-grade epoxies. Sensible handling keeps them working and keeps you working.

1. 1Wear nitrile gloves and work in a ventilated space.
2. 2Store between 5°C and 25°C, out of direct sunlight and away from frost.
3. 3Keep hardener lids clean and tight — moisture ruins them.
4. 4Let mixed waste cure fully in the pot before disposal.